In Conversation with Ross Hill and the history of Levi's at Hill's of Kerrisdale
Hill’s of Kerrisdale has been a fixture in the Vancouver shopping scene for over a century. Founded as Kerrisdale Dry Goods in 1914, it has evolved into Hill’s of Kerrisdale, Ray Rickburn, Blue Ruby. Almost a generation later, Hill’s Dry Goods launched as the sister store to Hill’s of Kerrisdale, catering to the next generation. Ross Hill has seen it all unfold as the son of Jim Hill, the store was like a second home to him. Growing up at Hill’s of Kerrisdale gave Ross a unique perspective on the evolution of fashion, none more fascinating or significant than denim. Here, he shares his perspective on the iconic denim brand Levi’s Strauss & Co, and its growth from utilitarian workwear to wardrobe staple.
How/When did Hill’s begin offering denim, and what was happening globally at that time?
To understand how jeans came to be, it’s important to go back in time to the gold rush when Levi Strauss supplied miners with canvas tents along with other dry goods. He observed the miners often had ripped and damaged pants and decided to repurpose the durable canvas from the tents to create sturdier workwear pants with riveted pockets. This invention led that way to what we now know as the blue jean. The blue jean was the evolution of workwear and was primarily worn for function over fashion. Strauss could have never imagined how symbolic Levi's and blue jeans would become. In the early days of the 20th century, Hill’s of Kerrisdale (known back then as Reid’s Dry Goods) located in Marpole at the time, catered mostly to the bustling community of Marpole, anchored by the Eburne sawmill on the banks of the Fraser River.
When did it change from workwear to fashion statement?
The transition of jeans from workwear to fashion statement marked a significant era in the store's history and society in general. Denim's transformation was paralleled by Hill’s adoption of Levi’s jeans in the 1960’s. Groups we would identify as ‘against the grain’ or part of the counterculture were often part of the younger generation, early adopters of blue jeans and Levi`s. Think James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause and Marilyn Monroe, for example. Like Levi’s, my father always kept an eye on what the younger generation was up to. This was instrumental for staying up to date on trends that would eventually become mainstream. Levi’s, Lee's Jeans, Teekays and Great West Garment Company’s (GWG) jeans were among the popular brands sold at Hill's during this time period.
Levi's eventually acquired a major share of Edmonton's GWG which was the largest workwear manufacturer in Canada at the time. GWG had patented the stonewash technique in the 1950's, making denim soft and more comfortable, broadening the wearability of jeans.
Levi's jeans at this point, were Shrink-To-Fit which meant that they were bought as raw denim and would eventually fit to your body. This process requires you to wear your Levi's in the tub and then let them dry on your body. Over time, the jeans will shrink, soften and mold to your body. While it's nice to end up with a custom fit, it's a cumbersome process!
The marriage between Levi's and GWG (particularly the stone washing technique) solidified Levi's and jeans as a significant garment in the average wardrobe in Canada.
In the 1960's Levi's introduced a pre-shrunk (aka sanforized) jean. This gave way to the rise of the pre-shrunk and washed jeans that we commonly wear today. The Levi's 'pre-shrunk' jean was called the 505 regular fit. It was quite popular due to the soft and comfortable fit when compared to the Levi's 501 Shrink-To-Fits that were very stiff and time consuming to customize.
Then came the counterculture movement in the 1960's and 1970's. Events like Woodstock and the Holland Pop Festival changed everything. Woodstock was the epitome of counterculture at the time, coupled with the Vietnam War and the sexual revolution occurring among the youth. They were all wearing denim, especially Levi’s at these events which became symbolic of anti-establishment and social change. And we noticed, the more the younger generation rebelled, the tighter the silhouettes got!
Tell us about the origins of the jean shop?
We saw a lot of changes in jean trends but no other trend signifies the 70's quite like the ‘high-rise revolution’ which gave way to flares, bell-bottoms and wide leg silhouettes. As orders for jeans increased, we devoted more space to emphasize our commitment to carrying the best jeans selection to bring younger customers into the store. The Jean Shop featured a unique design, with an orange color scheme and a seventies-inspired aesthetic. This dedicated denim section became a hub for jean enthusiasts and Levi’s featured prominently. On busy Saturdays and after school, the Jean Shop would be buzzing with energy, excitement and chatter. It Generated substantial revenue, highlighting the growing demand for denim. Just like how the silhouettes of jeans always change, the Jean Shop has evolved over time but it is integral to Hill’s and I don’t see that changing.
Can you discuss some of the iconic denim brands that we launched at Hills?
We’ve had the longest relationship with Levi’s given their ability to adapt to cultural shifts and their commitment to the younger generations. Other successful brands we carried back in the day were Big Blue, Le Culottier, Britannia jeans and the iconic Howick jeans with the big star on the pocket.
The 80’s at Hill's saw a dramatic expansion of denim brands as the designer jean craze took off. Guess, Calvin Klein and Andre Michelle (Howick) represented the glitz and glam of the 80’s in denim form.
In the 90’s, a flood of denim brands hit the market with more diversity than ever, this marked the start of ‘premium denim.’ Brands like Diesel, Big Star and Replay became prominent at Hill’s, appealing to different fashion tastes and preferences. As pop-culture always influences fashion trends, the early 2000’s saw silhouettes get tight and low with Miss Sixty at the forefront, which was a far cry from denim’s utilitarian roots! This time period marked the birth of 7 For All Mankind, Citizens of Humanity and True Religion.
Current Day and Future Outlook
After our conversation with Ross, it’s clear how deep rooted jeans and the Levi's brand are in our culture, not just as a fashion staple. Jeans are an essential piece in everyone's wardrobe that we are proud to offer our customers.
Today, the relationship between Hill’s of Kerrisdale and Levi’s represents the brand’s timeless appeal and the store’s ability to evolve. From the early days of Levi’s Shrink-To-Fit jeans to today’s Baggy Dad and Low Loose jeans, Levi’s has been a constant presence at Hill’s; shaping and reflecting cultural and fashion trends of the times.
The story is about blue jeans but also about a dedication to quality, innovation and a deep understanding of customer needs that have always been and will continue to be central to us, at Hills of Kerrisdale, Hills Dry Goods and Ray Rickburn.